Our top 3 SAILPRO anchorages
2. Cala Coticcio in Caprera
3. The lagoon between Razzoli, Santa Maria and Budelli
Our Sailing notes
Weather and navigation
Sea: the Bonifacio strait is notoriously far from funny. Westerlies kick up nasty waves and swell, and to sail west of the archipelagos is, to say the least, testing. 4 metres waves are not uncommon even in summer. Thank God the many islands and islets provide plenty of shelter.
Wind: westerlies can be strong in any season, especially cold fronts from the NW. Expect winds of gale and storm force in any season, although not more than once or twice in summer. Calmer months are july and beginning of august.
Harbours and Marinas
Top ports like Porto Cervo, Portisco and Cavallo are outrageously expensive in summer. Reasonably priced ports like Bonifacio, Santa Teresa and Maddalena are crowded and should be entered very early to find a berth
Gastronomy: it happens sometimes that flashy and fashionable places are full or overpriced restaurants with seasonal cooks who can be defined such only with largesse, and Sardinia is no exception. We rarely found a place where we go back happily, and among these i would only consider restaurant 'Il Mirto' on the hills of Maddalena island. Book ahead. Shopwise things are tough if you do not want to walk miles. Only decent towns to shop in are Maddalena and Bonifacio, the latter with a remarkable fishmonger 50 metres off the eastern end of the harbour.
The ideal sailing route might start from Tavolara Island, a nature masterpiece of sheer towering grey granite. From there head towards the island of Mortorio and stop for the night either in Porto Cervo or Porto Rotondo to enjoy the flashy nightlife, otherwise sail a little more and get lost in the magnificent wilderness of Caprera, either at Cala Coticcio, Garibaldi or Portese. It's a quick sail from there to the three island of Razzoli, Budelli and Santa Maria, the crowns of the Maddalena Park. Here pick up a mooring buoy and enjoy the perfect waters.
The Frech islands of Lavezzi and Cavallo are around 9 miles to the north. The former is an amazing combination of light gray granite blocks forming three separate anchorages, one more spectacular than the other. Unless you get there in november, do not expect solitude. Cavallo is a private islands with a flashy hotel and awfully expensive villas, and you are not sopposed to roam around freely.
The next step is Bonifacio, easily one of the most beautiful harbours of the Med. Get there early.
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